For years I dreamed of visiting Lake Louise, a hamlet nestled within Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada. I would pore over photographs of the lake’s turquoise, glacier-fed waters surrounded by towering peaks and think to myself: “One day.”

My “one day” came last September when my husband and I arrived in the Canadian wonderland for our anniversary. And I can honestly tell you that no photo can capture its true essence. You must see it, feel it, experience it. This fairytale location visited by tourists from all over the world is the ancient home of the Stoney Nakota First Nations, who considered Lake Louise a sacred place where the earth’s energy gathers into a vortex.

When we mention Banff to friends, most aren’t exactly sure where it is, but getting to Banff from L.A. is like going to Seattle or Denver — super easy and just a little over three hours. We took the 7 a.m. flight from LAX into Calgary, picked up our rental car and cruised the scenic Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1) to Banff — a beautiful and straightforward 1½-hour drive.  

By 3 p.m., we were munching on cheesy waffle fries, roasted cauliflower and margherita pizza at the Three Bears Brewery in downtown Banff.

We wanted to celebrate our anniversary day in Lake Louise, but since the iconic Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, a grand alpine resort overlooking the lake’s serene waters, gets pricy during the summer and early fall peak season, we stayed in downtown Banff the first night, spent our anniversary night at the Chateau, then came back to Banff for another two nights.

When we were putting our itinerary together, it sounded like we’d have to endure a lot of driving back and forth, but because the highway is easy to navigate and the views are nonstop, our plan was perfect.

Downtown Banff: A charming base

Banff is a charming town nestled in the Rockies (Mt. Rundle and Mt. Cascade). The downtown area is walkable and filled with restaurants, breweries, coffee shops, boutiques, art galleries, a grocery store, hotels and two spots to enjoy the famous Beaver Tails (we loved the cinnamon sugar ones).

We made downtown our base, drove to different locations after breakfast and came back in the late afternoon. (There are also public shuttles and buses to take you to various spots in Banff.) In the mornings, we picked up coffee and croissants from Wild Flour Bakery, took a 10-minute walk to the Bow River, found a bench and enjoyed our breakfast to the sound of the river flowing. We strolled the Art in Nature Trail, admiring the unique sculptures and wood carvings by local artists as we made our way to Bow Falls.

When you arrive at the stairs, walk up for even more incredible views. One afternoon, we took a relaxing river float here. If you want a little more exhilaration, rafting is also available.

Lake Louise: A fairytale setting

This glacial lake is a showstopper, but getting here takes a little advance planning during the peak season. There are public shuttles from downtown, but you have to reserve your spot in advance. The drive here is an easy, scenic 50 minutes, but there is only one public parking lot, and it fills up early in the morning.

We chose the fairytale option and spent one night at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, located at the edge of the water. The beauty of this lake will take your breath away. The rock flour carried in the glacial melt that trickles into the lake is what creates the jewel-like, crystal-clear, blue-green color that shimmers in the sun. And when you walk into this historic luxury hotel with the large picture windows framing this magnificent view, you, too, will feel like a prince or princess in a castle.

We spent our day on the lake canoeing the serene, glass-like waters, followed by hiking, dining lakeside and sipping champagne while watching the sunset. We woke up early to catch the sunrise the next morning, but our eyes were drawn again to the lake. Because of the glacial melt, the lake water is always freezing, even in the summer, so swimming is not an option.

After waking up to Lake Louise, Fairmont guests can take the hotel’s private shuttle to Moraine Lake, located in the Valley of Ten Peaks and only accessible by park shuttles. This gem has a unique beauty of its own, with an intense azure-blue color that’s most spectacular when you climb the Rockpile Trail and see the lake from above. The climb is easy with steps that gently take you to the peak. The unique color is thanks to the rock sediment deposited in the lake by the surrounding glaciers throughout the summer.

Johnston Canyon Hike: Immersed in nature

Jut 30 minutes from downtown, you’ll find a hike that literally immerses you in the canyon with a rushing creek below you, lush trees towering on your right and the polished limestone canyon rock on your left — an incredibly unique experience.

What’s wonderful about this hike is how accessible it is. The suspended catwalks guide you to the lower falls and the upper falls. As I made the gentle climb up, I was in awe of the fact that we were suspended above the water and the treetops of the forest. The metal railings and the paved paths allow all abilities and ages to enjoy this stunning scenery. We saw families with babies, young kids and older couples.

There are benches and viewpoints along the way to savor the scenery even more. There is a store and café at the base if you want to pick up snacks and drinks. We brought our own nuts, fruit and water and found a quiet spot with a great view.

Emerald Lake: Serenity in the Yoho Valley

This serene beauty lies deep in the Yoho Valley and is so worth the hour drive from downtown. The two-hour hiking trail encircles the lake and takes you up close to the effects of a receding glacier. The first half of the hike is filled with dry vegetation, but the second half feels like a tropical island where you’re walking on ancient tree trunks protruding from the ground. Even though there were lots of other hikers, there were moments that felt like we were in our own secluded paradise with glistening water, blue skies and glaciers.

My cousin Tina and her family had visited Banff and the surrounding lakes during the summer, and when I called her to get some insider tips, she had the best description of her trip: “There were times that I looked out and I thought to myself: ‘This is what heaven must look like.’”

My thoughts exactly.

Good to Know

• Take comfortable, casual clothes that you can layer. Evenings and early mornings are cold, even in the summer months. Take two pairs of shoes. I took my Brooks sneakers that I usually walk in and my Brooks trail running shoes for the hikes. You’ll go through mud and dirt, and most likely there will be some rain.
• You’ll need a Park Pass for Banff National Park. It’ll be easier to buy online before you go so that you can bypass the line at the park gate.
• Canoe on at least one lake. Each one is spectacular.
• Reserve your spot early for Parks Canada Shuttles.
• Check out Roam Public Transit for tips on getting around Banff.

Elena Epstein is Creative Director of L.A. Parent and mom of two daughters.