It was drizzling as we slipped on ponchos and prepared to ride e-bikes to the garden of one of the world’s greatest artists: Claude Monet. “Come on, mom,” my son Michael said, motioning for me to follow. I was hesitant about riding in the rain, but my worries were for naught. The skies soon cleared as our group of seven rode along the banks of the Seine to Monet’s house and garden in Vernon-Giverny. Pedaling to Monet’s Garden was among the many exciting port stops during our 11-night Normandy & Gems of the Seine cruise in France with Scenic Luxury Cruises & Tours.
Aboard the cruise company’s Scenic Gem, we sailed roundtrip from Paris to Les Andelys, Rouen, Honfleur, Caudebec-en-Caux, Vernon-Giverny and Conflans-Sainte-Honorine. The excursion opened the pages of French history — from famous artists and prominent figures to World War I and World War II.
The ship — up close and personal
Our Scenic Gem crew was refreshingly friendly. Upon boarding, we were warmly greeted by crew members, including Mandy, the cruise director, and our private butler, Yasmin, who quickly learned our preferences (coffee, croissants and fruit served on our balcony each morning).
We even had the opportunity to chat with Captain Maxence in the wheelhouse while the boat was docked in a port. When I asked about his biggest challenge as captain, he said it was maneuvering the boat through narrow locks.
Indeed, it was fascinating to watch the locks control water levels to raise or lower our boat several feet in canals. “We go very slowly to make sure that even if we touch a wall, it’s a light bump,” he said, showing us the joystick (not a wheel) he uses to steer the boat.
After years of cruising on ocean liners, Michael and I were excited to sail on our first river cruise, which offers a much more intimate experience. Scenic Gem accommodates 124 passengers, and there were just 85 on our cruise. And while my children are now adults, I was happy to learn that Scenic is among the few river cruise lines to welcome youth on-board. It has all-inclusive features that enhance the cruise experience on and off the ship. Among them: private butler service, free room service, unlimited complimentary beverages and spirits, including a mini-bar, and spacious private balconies and sun lounges. At the press of a button, the balcony window can open or close, and sliding glass panels can extend the room for more space or close for privacy.
Delving into character and history
Most mornings, Michael and I joined a morning yoga or stretch class before excursions. Each day, we had a choice of two to four complimentary excursions, offering gentle or regular-paced walks, as well as several hiking and biking options. In addition, complimentary onboard e-bikes enabled us to explore waterfront villages on our own.
When I couldn’t decide between excursions, I turned to Mandy, who cheerfully answered questions and offered shopping and dining suggestions in ports (her tip to find the best oysters in Honfleur was spot on).
I appreciated the option to choose excursions and change my mind at the last minute, and I was delighted when one of our guides, Ben Bailey, showed up in character, dressed as King Richard the Lionheart, for a hike to the hilltop Château Gaillard in Les Andelys.
The hike was short but steep, and along the way we learned about the medieval king of England (who built Château Gaillard in record time) from our knowledgeable and entertaining guide.
We had two days at our next port stop, Rouen, a capital city in the northern French region of Normandy. Michael and I were pleased to see that Ben was once again our guide for the city tour, this time dressed as Rollo the Viking, the Count of Rouen who became the first ruler of Normandy around the 9th century. We walked along cobbled streets to medieval sites including the Notre-Dame of Rouen Cathedral (Ben said King Richard the Lionheart’s heart is buried in a tomb here) and the Joan of Arc Memorial Cross, marking the spot where she was burned at the stake in 1431.
The next day, Michael and I joined the full-day excursion to the Somme Battlefields. We visited the Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial, where French and British forces fought the Germans in 1916. American soldiers were deployed a year later. Our group walked through preserved trenches in peaceful green spaces as birds chirped in the trees. Yet, in the midst of the tranquility, red signs warning about still-active landmines were chilling reminders of wartime.
We also went to the Lochnagar Crater, where an underground explosion on July 1, 1916, left a crater 69 feet deep and 330 feet wide. Signage and sculptures, such as an empty chair symbolizing the loss of life, surround the crater.
Two days later, we visited the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial, containing the graves of 9,387 soldiers. Then, we drove to the Normandy beaches of Utah and Omaha, site of the D-Day landings. Standing on the sandy beaches in pouring rain, Ben described the U.S. military’s role in liberating France and defeating Germany in June 1944.
“It was a full moon and there was a storm in the English Channel. The Germans didn’t think their enemies would land then,” he said.
These somber excursions brought world war history home. “It makes me realize that these historical events aren’t as long ago as I thought,” Michael said.
Back to the gardens
Other excursions were more laid back and scenic. Enroute to Étretat’s alabaster coastline, known for rock formations, we drove through the French countryside, passing potato and grain fields before reaching the town. Here, typical Normandy timber frame houses are built with thatched roofs. In Honfleur, where the Seine meets the English Channel, we watched breathlessly as the captain expertly maneuvered the boat into a narrow space in the small, pretty harbor.
While visiting Van Gogh’s home and grave in Auvers-sur-Oise, we learned about his life and death (locals say he was accidentally shot and killed by two teens).
But Monet’s Garden remains my favorite experience. It was magical walking through his two-story home and through the beautiful and colorful gardens and pond that inspired his paintings.
After the garden tour, we rode our e-bikes to Au Coin du Paintre Giverny, a nearby bakery for warm, flaky croissants. Back on the Scenic Gem, we joined a painting class led by a local artist.
That evening, an event exclusive to Scenic passengers featured a private classical concert in the 12th-century Chateau de La Roche-Guyon, which is built into a steep rock face. From the ship, we walked through gardens to a private reception preceding the concert.
Bon appétit
In the Scenic Gem’s Crystal Dining Room, meals featured regional cuisine such as coq au vin and French onion soup, as well as international options. One evening, an elaborate French dessert buffet was prepared by a local pâtissier. On another day, there was a delightful cheese and wine tasting. For a casual meal, we ate at the River Cafe, which serves breakfast, sandwiches, pizzas, soups and sweets. And after our walking tour in Rouen, a delicious barbecue was served on the sundeck.
In addition, most guests get to experience at least one specialty dinner. At the L’Amour Restaurant, a five-course meal is paired with imported and French wines. We also enjoyed dining at Table La Rive, a private chef’s dinner with seven courses in the Crystal Dining Room. There is no extra charge for these dinners, but reservations are required. The chef accommodates various dietary preferences.
Back in Paris, we joined one final group excursion led by a Parisian local in the La Marais District. It was nice to get acclimated because Michael and I were staying an additional three days in Paris on our own.
Still, we were sad to say au revoir to our crew and ship. Sailing along the Seine enabled us to visit pretty storybook villages and to gain a better understanding of French history and culture.
Mimi Slawoff is a Valencia-based journalist and mother of three adult children. Follow her on Twitter @Mimitravelz and Instagram @Mimitravels.
