My husband and I had a singular mission as soon as we arrived on Kauai: check in, grab shaved ice and find two Adirondack chairs perched above the ocean. We were dreaming of the sound of waves crashing on the shore and the taste of lilikoi, guava and mango. Then we heard another sound — roosters crowing right next to us.
We quickly realized we had found somewhere unique. Free-roaming chickens and roosters — descendants of the colorful red junglefowl — are simply part of Kauai’s landscape and soundscape. We saw them everywhere: on the beach, on hiking trails, in parking lots and once even strolling through the open sliding door of a beachfront living room. Kauai’s rugged ocean beauty mixed with the charm of these island friends roaming about will always be an indelible memory of our adventure here.
This was our first time visiting Kauai, the oldest and northernmost of the Hawaiian Islands. There is a moodiness here — in the weather, the misty clouds hovering the peaks of emerald mountains, the lush taro fields, secluded beaches, dramatic cliffs and cascading waterfalls.
The landscape provides the ideal spot to reconnect with nature and yourself. The slower, quieter island pace is the perfect respite from deadlines, meetings, meal prep and endless to-do lists. You can still do a lot here (outrigger canoe paddling, surfing, snorkeling, hiking) or, if you prefer, do nothing at all except savor rainbows, juicy papayas and a great cup of coffee as you watch the sun rise from the ocean.
How you want to spend your time will determine which part of the island is the best place to stay. To get a good feel for Kauai, we divided our week into three parts of the island, each with its own unique vibe.
East Shore
This is the middle of the island, offering the most central location. Referred to as Coconut Coast because of the groves of coconut palms that grow along the shore, this is the most populated and busiest area. There are plenty of shops and restaurants nearby, plus easy access to both North and South shores of the island.
We stayed at the Sheraton Kauai Coconut Beach Resort. The oceanfront resort is just 15 minutes from the airport and close to markets, restaurants and beaches. One of the main advantages of staying here is that one day you can turn right on the main road and explore that side of the island, and the next day you can turn left and explore the other side of the island, which is exactly what we did.
After each day of exploring, we returned to the resort to relax by the infinity pool. The poolside Crooked Surf offers a wide selection of appetizers, salads, sandwiches, fish tacos, poke bowl and Ahi plate, plus drinks. We loved the scenic oceanfront walking path, which we strolled each morning and evening. The beach right by the hotel can be rocky and not ideal for swimming, but it’s perfect for walking, biking and enjoying spectacular views.
Another advantage of staying eastside is the mornings. Coming from L.A., and with the two-hour time difference, we were up before dawn without alarm clocks. Each day, we walked down to the beach to watch nature’s most magnificent morning show. The first day, thanks to ideal weather conditions, we got a showstopper. I had never seen the sun, in all its majestic glory, rise from the depths of the sea. I remember thinking, “This experience made the trip.” And it was only day one.
After watching the sunrise, we took a walk along the beach and then headed to the breakfast buffet at Daybreak Restaurant, where I kept going back for my favorite taste of Hawaii — papayas. The resort also offers an upscale Pacific Island restaurant, Moamoa Hawaiian Fish House, featuring a wonderful seafood menu. There is also First Light Coffee and Juice Bar, where you can pick up pastries and sandwiches in addition to smoothies and custom coffees to take with you on your island adventures.
The resort’s oceanfront Luau Ka Hikina is a wonderful and educational way to spend a night. Under the direction of kumu hula (hula master) Leilani Rivera Low, the evening is all about celebrating the Hawaiian and Polynesian cultures with locally sourced, traditional food. The focus on storytelling and celebrating the uniqueness of different cultures through dance is beautiful.
In addition to their own luau, the 314-room resort offers poolside shaved ice, sunrise yoga, lei making, complimentary bike rentals, ukulele lessons and evening s’mores. The game room overlooking the pool features two pool tables, table-top arcade machines with old-school favorites, a foosball table and a dartboard. It’s a great spot to unwind and for families to hang out. My husband and I enjoyed our pool-side ukulele lesson, which is a lot harder than we imagined.
The late afternoons were the perfect time to grab a drink and some fries, sit by one of the firepits and play a little pool. We were so relaxed and in vacation mode, that we found ourselves dancing poolside to the live music playing one night. No one else was dancing, but our motto coming here was “Why not?”
South Shore
This is often called the “sunny side” of the island and it’s a popular, warm and typically drier part of Kauai. Poipu is the main tourist area with lots of beach resorts and condos.
We spent one night in Poipu at the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa. This luxury oceanfront resort is gorgeous with lush landscaping and panoramic views of the ocean. Kids of all ages will love the multi-level pool area with a water slide, a lazy river and saltwater lagoons. For those seeking a quieter experience, there is also an adult-only pool. The Poipu Bay Golf course is next to the resort for championship golf with an ocean view, and Shipwreck Beach is right in front of the hotel. You can grab beach chairs and towels from the hotel and enjoy the day on the sand.
There are several restaurants on the property, including Tidepools, an upscale Hawaiian restaurant inside thatched-roof bungalows floating above a koi-filled lagoon. And don’t miss the resort’s giant shaved ice served poolside.
There is a terrific walking trail, Maha’ulepu Heritage Trail, that starts at Shipwreck Beach (in front of the resort) with beautiful ocean views. The path is easy to navigate for both adults and kids but do wear sturdy walking shoes.
The resort also offers a variety of daily activities including outdoor Pilates Yoga Fusion, Orchid Flower Jewelry making, Hawaiian Palm Basket making, Ukulele lessons, aqua aerobics, Pickleball, Hawaiian bath salt blending bar and much more. We did the Rise & Shine Scenic Walk with Alex, who was funny and knowledgeable. A great way to start the day.
Poipu Beach Park is close by. It’s a popular family-friendly beach and a great place to spot sea turtles and monk seals. If you come around sunset, you could see 20 to 50 sea turtles on the sand resting for the evening. If you go just a little west, you’ll find Spouting Horn Park, where you can watch the lava tube blowhole shoot ocean water high up into the air. In addition to great views, the park also has lots of picnic tables and parking.
The Shops at Kukui’ula is an upscale outdoor shopping center just a 10-minute drive from the resort. There are cute boutiques, art galleries and several great restaurants. We had a lovely lunch at Living Foods grocery store/café and restaurant with a focus on local ingredients sourced directly from area farmers, ranchers and artisans.
One of my favorite spots here is the Tree Tunnel, an enchanting canopy of 500 Eucalyptus trees that line Maliuhi Road as you enter the towns of Koloa and Poipu. The first time we drove through it felt like we had been transported into a magical painting where the sunlight softly beams through the foliage.
North Shore
This part of the island is lush with emerald mountains and taro fields. This area gets more rain than the east and the south side. Here we met the Nene (Hawaiian goose), which are the endangered state bird of Hawaii. We had a whole family of Nene set up camp in front of our patio sliding door. We loved watching them come and go and interact with the chickens and the roosters roaming the grassy area.
The North Shore is quieter and has an “old Hawaii” laid-back charm. Hanalei Bay is a gorgeous 2-mile stretch with calm waters, soft sand and a historic pier. This is a great beach for all ages. We saw lots of kids, teenagers and couples. You can surf, paddle board, swim and walk along the scenic coast.
We stayed at the Westin Princeville Ocean Resort Villas (part of the Marriott portfolio). The condo-style villas have fully equipped kitchens and washer and dryers. There are four pools on the property, including a children’s pool and lots of wide-open grassy areas overlooking the ocean. Since the resort is on a cliff, there is no direct beach access, but you’re only a 10-minute drive to Hanalei Bay.
On your way to the bay, definitely stop in the charming town of Hanalei. You know you’ve stepped back in time as you cross the historic, one-lane steel bridge over the Hanalei River. This is old-school Hawaii. No chains or name brands. Little shops, local restaurants, shaved ice, coffee and lots of benches to sit and relax. We picked up dinner one night and set up a picnic on the sand by the pier in Hanalei Bay and watched the sky turn pink and orange as the sun set.
Waimea Canyon
Definitely spend a day at Waimea Canyon and Koke’e State Park, which is just north of the canyon. Waimea is often referred to as the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific” and is must-see. This canyon of many colors is a jaw-dropping state park. It takes about an hour from the East Shore to get to the entry point of the park. As you drive the road into the park, at first, you don’t see any dramatic views and the signage into the park is not great. Just keep going and you’ll get to the first parking lot. This is where you’ll pay the one-time $10 per car and $5 per person entry fee that’s good for all the lookout areas in both Waimea Canyon and Koke’e State Park.
Waimea Canyon Lookout is the main lookout and it’s directly off Waimea Canyon Drive. We realized just how high we were standing when we saw the helicopter tours below us. This lookout has a large parking lot, bathroom and multiple viewing decks. You might think that these wide, panoramic views can’t get any better. But they will. From here, keep driving up for even more dramatic vistas. On our way to the final two lookouts, we stopped at Koke’e Lodge to grab a snack and a souvenir. Kalalau Lookout, which is technically in Koke’e State Park, is located two miles above the lodge. We got lucky with the weather and had a clear day here. From this lookout, you’re not just looking into the vast canyon. Here you have an incredible vista of the 4,000-foot-deep Kalalau Valley and the Napali Coast. Off in the distance, we could see the waves rolling in. Just incredible.
At the very end of the road is Puu O Kila Lookout, with the highest vistas at 4,000 feet. This is also the starting point for the Pihea Trail, which goes along the valley rim.
Kauai Coffee Company
If you love a good cup of coffee as much as I do, this is a great spot to explore. Kauai Coffee Company is the largest coffee grower in the U.S. with more than 4 million coffee trees. The visitor center offers free coffee tastings of their 100% Hawaiian, estate-grown coffees every day. Each one has its own unique flavor, from fruity to chocolaty. On our rainy, misty morning visit, we loved being cozy here, sampling a variety of aromas and tastes. We learned that the volcanic earth mixed with lots of rain creates the ideal condition for a smooth cup of coffee.
Once the rain slowed, we took the free self-guided walking tour through the coffee orchard, where signs explain the coffee process from blossom to harvest to roasting. You can also pick up a variety of estate reserve coffees at the gift shop to take home.
Good to Know:
- Kauai does not observe daylight savings time. The time difference from L.A. is only two hours.
- For Waimea Canyon, give yourself most of the day to explore. Go on a clear day and start in the morning to get the most out of the views. Wear sturdy walking shoes. Bring water and snacks.
- If you want to experience the island and its different regions, you’ll need a car. There is basically one main highway and getting from one side of the island to the other is easy.
- Pack layers and a raincoat. Kauai is lush and beautiful because of the abundance of rain, and in the mornings and evenings it does get chilly enough for a sweatshirt.
- Not all beaches have lifeguards. You can find lifeguard beaches here.
Elena Epstein is Editorial Director of L.A. Parent.
