Carving through fresh powder under blue skies, I felt a rush of nostalgia during a recent return to Palisades Tahoe, the iconic Sierra Nevada resort formerly known as Squaw Valley. This time, I was sans kids, but brought my sidekick and childhood friend Dana to explore the expanded 6,000-acre winter wonderland.
As Palisades Tahoe celebrates its 75th anniversary this season, the resort’s rich Olympic history and world-class terrain continue to draw skiers and snowboarders of all levels. From the exhilarating runs accessed by North America’s only funitel to the laid-back vibe of Alpine Meadows, our visit revealed why this snow-blessed destination remains a favorite among locals and visitors alike.
Rich history and new features
Easily accessible via a one-hour flight from LAX to Reno (plus a 45-minute shuttle ride to the resort), Palisades lies in the Olympic Valley, developed in the 1940s by Wayne and Sandy Paulsen. Business partner Alexander Cushing built and expanded the ski resort, which opened on Nov. 24, 1949. Cushing is responsible for bringing the 1960 Winter Olympics to Lake Tahoe.
Palisades’ diverse terrain and annual snowfall of 400 inches or more attracts Olympic and World Cup athletes, as well as skiers and snowboarders of all ages and abilities. Classes and camps are available for ages 5 and older throughout the season, and the good news is that Palisades Tahoe has one of the longest spring ski seasons in North America, typically operating through Memorial Day Weekend or longer.
During our visit, Dana and I enjoyed blue skies and fresh snow from a previous storm, which often delivered epic skiing conditions, just as I remembered. But there were new elements, too. Along with the name change, the Base to Base Gondola (introduced two years ago) connects Palisades Tahoe to nearby Alpine Meadows (the two resorts merged in 2011). Combined, the resort spans 6,000 skiable acres across eight peaks.
But getting around is speedy and efficient with the resort’s gondola, Gold Coast Funitel and Aerial Tram. Palisades is the only resort in North America to have all three. These came in handy since Dana had a shoulder injury and couldn’t ski. Fortunately, she was able to ride the gondolas to enjoy the views and the snowy landscape and participate in other Palisades Tahoe activities.
Skiing at Palisades Tahoe
On our first day, I got my ski gear from a rental shop in the slopeside Village at Palisades Tahoe. It was a smooth process, and staff members were very helpful in making sure my skis and boots were a great fit. I appreciated that I could store my skis and poles overnight for free in a building by the Olympic House, eliminating lugging my gear between the condo and slopes.
While I wished Dana could ski with me, I felt comfortable skiing solo because Palisades is easy to navigate, especially with the Palisades Tahoe app. I found it super handy to check lift and trail status and to track my daily skiing. I especially liked that the app provided chairlift names — and which trails they access. The app also lists village amenities and events.
I enjoyed riding the Gold Coast Funitel, which runs on two cables versus one for gondolas, enabling it to operate in higher winds. It travels to a top station where there is a three-story food court and launch pad for skiing and snowboarding.
From there, I skied to the Gold Coast chairlift, which brought me to the summit and panoramic views of snowy slopes and Lake Tahoe. After a few exhilarating hours of swooshing through fluffy powder and groomed trails, I skied down the intermediate Mountain Run trail to the base, where I caught up with Dana for lunch and sightseeing.
We took the Aerial Tram (open year-round) for a 10-minute scenic ride to High Camp, home to eateries, a marketplace and the Olympic Museum, which has exhibits with memorabilia from the 1960s Winter Olympics.
High Camp is fun to visit any time of year. In winter, you can ski at the summit, which even has beginner runs. Summer activities include disc golf, roller skating, geocaching and hiking. A large deck offers panoramic views of Lake Tahoe and the Sierra Nevada range.
One afternoon, Dana and I rode the Base to Base Gondola to Alpine Meadows. It’s about a 16-minute scenic ride. Afterwards, while I skied, Dana got cozy around a fire pit at the Alpine Meadows lodge, a laid-back facility with an indoor cafeteria and outdoor deck.
There’s an intimate, downhome vibe in Alpine. While I was riding up the mountain on the Summit Express chair with a lift operator, she told me Alpine is her favorite ski resort. I asked her why. “There’s no village here, so it attracts mostly skiers and snowboarders. People are just here to ski and ride,” the operator said.
The six-person Summit chair is the heart of Alpine and accesses 80% of the resort’s diverse terrain. I enjoyed Alpine and its proximity to Palisades.
The Village at Palisades Tahoe
For us, the pedestrian-friendly Village at Palisades Tahoe was an ideal home base. We stayed in a slopeside condo and dined at several restaurants. There are also boutiques, wine bars, coffee houses, an ice cream shop and a small market. The Village is an inviting place where you can gather around the fire pit and listen to live music while kids romp in the snow.
Lodging options vary from standard rooms up to three-bedroom suites. Our one-bedroom condo had a full kitchen with granite countertops, a living room with a stone hearth fireplace and a balcony with village and slope views. The building also has laundry facilities, fitness facilities, outdoor spas, billiard lounges and ski lockers.
There’s also a shuttle stop. Complimentary shuttles travel to historic Truckee and other places in North Lake Tahoe. One evening, we rode a shuttle to the Everline Resort & Spa for dinner at Sandy’s Pub, where we enjoyed one of our favorite meals in Tahoe. My tender prime rib dip sandwich was served with a local brown ale jus and toma truffle cheese on an Amoroso bun.
Events and activities galore
It’s a short walk to SnoVentures Activity Zone, featuring day and evening snow tubing at Palisades Tahoe. There’s also a free shuttle. On select days, there’s disco tubing with flashing lanes, lasers and a live DJ.
Other activities include Alpine Snow Golf, concerts and live music. In addition, the resort has several annual events throughout the year, including the springtime Cushing Crossing pond skimming contest.
Where to Eat
The Village at Palisades Tahoe has a wonderful variety of restaurants. Here are a few of our favorites.
Sun Bowl Acai & Poke: Grab-and-go breakfast items.
Wildflour Baking Company:Baked goods, breakfast bagels, burritos and lunch items. The specialty is thick, gooey chocolate chip cookies fresh from the oven.
Rocker Restaurant: Named for the ski design invented by Palisades Tahoe icon Shane McConkey, Rocker serves generous portions for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Enjoy indoor/outdoor seating with mountain views.
22 Bistro:ServesNew American cuisine. Consider theKobe beef sliders or Dragonfly Thai noodle bowl.
Le Chamois & Loft Bar: Pizza and beer. Popular après-ski spot.
Tremigo Mexican Kitchen & Tequila Bar:Signature Mexican food and margaritas. Try the birria tacos with slow-cooked adobo-marinated beef.
Getting from LAX to Reno
We paid $166 roundtrip on JetBlue for our mid-March ski trip. From Reno, it’s a 45-minute drive to Palisades Tahoe in Olympic Valley. Shuttles, buses and car rentals are available.
Mimi Slawoff is a Valencia-based journalist and mother of three adult children. Follow her on Twitter @Mimitravelz and Instagram @Mimitravels.
