As I gripped the handlebars of the RZR, a red-and-black sports UTV built for off-road driving, I could feel my heart knocking in my chest. A glossy red helmet covered my head, goggles protected my eyes and a green bandana wrapped my nose and mouth. I was ready, but I threw a glance full of glee and panic over at Kara, my fellow passenger. “What are we doing?”
Off-Road Mountain Driving
But there was no turning back, so I yelled “Yahooooo!” through the thick layers of fabric covering my mouth and pressed my foot on the pedal in pursuit of our Canopy River guide, who sped away on his ATV, leading us on a thrilling ride through the Sierra Madre Mountains surrounding Puerto Vallarta. Our vehicle revved and roared, sending camel-colored clouds of dust flying around us as I navigated rugged trails.
At some points along the path, we had to inch our way around wandering cattle — brown, black and white bulls whose lazy gazes contrasted sharply with our adrenaline-fueled excitement. When a particularly languishing bull blocked our path, our guide patted her backside to coax her to move over just a little. She slowly rolled her eyes our way and, in even slower motion, moved a few inches. We slipped by carefully, in awe.
As we wound our way through the mountains, our guide pointed out termite nests that looked like oversized straw hats perched high in tree branches. He told us about El Cuale, a former old Spanish mining town nestled in the mountains, where gold and obsidian were once extracted from the earth.
We stopped at Jorullo Point, which includes a unique glass-and-concrete platform from which you are gifted 360-degree views of the mountains and the valley below. It’s breathtaking and a little unnerving to stand perched in the sky (1,377 feet above sea level) and watch the ground below. Your head might go woozy for a moment, but if standing on a glass floor suspended in air is not on your bucket list, you can keep your feet planted on the concrete portion of the platform.
Other Canopy River adventures include hiking zip lining, horseback riding, stops for cocktails or beers at bars that look like expansive tree houses. One of the highlights for me was driving our RZR across what Puerto Vallarta claims as the world’s longest vehicular suspension bridge, Jurillo Bridge, a 1,542-foot-long contraption that stands over the Cuale river at nearly 500 feet high. On the other side of the bridge ride was El Salto (“the jump”) waterfall, a gorgeous canyon full of cool, citrine-colored water and fish. A friend challenged her fear of heights and jumped from the rocks and into the water below for a refreshing swim.
Scenic City Hike and Taco Tour
But Puerto Vallarta isn’t just about pulse-pounding adventures. It’s a place where excitement and relaxation coexist in perfect harmony, making it an ideal destination for families seeking a memorable getaway.
After our mountain escapades, we embraced the city’s softer side with a scenic hike to Cerro de La Cruz. To be sure, the climb from the bottom of the hill to the top is strenuous — those 333 concrete steps are no joke — but the panoramic views of terracotta roofs, mountain range and the vast Pacific Ocean made every bead of sweat worthwhile.
Walking through the town, I was struck by the charm of the cobblestone streets, made from stones from the Cuale River. Heading back down the hill, we shared pathways with residents, neighborhood dogs, donkeys and roosters. A colorful mural of Frida Kahlo blowing a big pink bubble gum balloon caught my eye, and a little bit of Hollywood lore was a fun stop, too: the former homes of the late actors Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. You’ll find images — including sculptures — of Taylor and Burton around town.
As the sun began to set, we embarked on a different kind of adventure: a nighttime taco tour — or “full taco immersion” as the guides like to say — with Vallarta Eats Food Tours. Strolling along cobblestone streets, we sampled an array of mouthwatering tacos, from succulent al pastor to crispy potato tacos. We learned that most seafood and fish tacos are reserved for breakfast and lunch, a tradition born from the days before refrigeration when the catch of the day had to be cleaned, cooked and eaten quickly.
Delectable taco tastings included:
And because you must always pair the savory with the sweet, the tour included stops at La Michoacana for ice pops and paletas and freshly made churros from the Churro Man stand or “church of the churros.” The churro station sits outside the Aguacate Church of Santa Cruz. As I stood sandwiched between the churro maker and the church walls, I bit into the warm, cinnamon-sugar coated dough and felt immersed in the flavors of the culture.
Where to Stay
Our home base for this whirlwind of activities was the Marriott Puerto Vallarta Resort & Spa. Mornings began with coffee on my balcony, gazing at the curve of Banderas Bay and the lush mountains beyond. The hardest decision each day? Whether to lounge by the infinity pool that seemed to melt into the ocean or stretch out on a hammock and read.
Families with young children can take advantage of the resort’s kids’ club, which includes trips to the playground, picnic tables and a shallow pool. Kids can learn about Mexican culture, take Spanish-language lessons, get creative with barro-clay pottery painting, engage in bilingual folktales and take cooking lessons. The cost is $30 per day and includes lunch, a t-shirt and discovery adventure booklet.
Parents, take note: While the kids are having a blast, you can indulge in some grown-up pleasures. The “four-hands” massage (two people working on my aching muscles at once!) at Ohtli Spa left me feeling rejuvenated and blissful.
Tequila Tasting
Speaking of adult time, don’t skip the tequila tasting with the resort’s resident sommelier — it’s an educational and flavorful journey through Mexico’s iconic spirit. Did you know that Marriott Puerto Vallarta grows its own blue agave on the property? It’s one of the few resorts in the world with a proprietary brand of tequila, CasaMagna, available in five varieties. Our sommelier also introduced us to raicilla, a local liquor made from agave that’s giving tequila a run for its money. If you’re planning a small private tasting, request to book it in the herb garden.
One of my favorite evenings was spent here, where twinkling lights created a magical atmosphere for the “Recetas de Abuelas” dinner spread out on a long oak table. Each dish, inspired by the chefs’ and grandmothers, was a loving tribute to Mexican home cooking — one that featured a creamy tortilla soup, poblano peppers stuffed with potato and cheese, skirt steak sope, chicken mole and rice pudding.
Planning Your Own Adventure
Now is always the best time to visit Puerto Vallarta. Whenever you visit, consider these tips:
- Pack for both the beach and mountains: swimsuits, hiking shoes and clothes you don’t mind getting dusty on off-road rides.
- Don’t forget sunscreen and insect repellent.
- Encourage kids (and picky adults) to try local dishes – it’s a delicious way to expand palates.
- Balance adventure days with relaxation time at the resort.
Whether you’re seeking pulse-pounding thrills or serene moments by the sea, Puerto Vallarta delivers. It’s a destination that invites you to be fearless in your pursuits, whether that means riding on mountain trails on an ATV or simply taking an extra hour by the pool. In this vibrant corner of Mexico, where the mountains meet the sea, every moment is an opportunity for family bonding and unforgettable memories.
Cassandra Lane is Editor-in-Chief of L.A. Parent.
