Love brought my husband and me to Hudson, N.Y., where my cousin was getting married — but it didn’t take long for us to fall for this town itself. With its 18th century architecture, farm-to-table meals and sweeping views of the Catskill Mountains, this charming river town is an easy, cozy getaway from New York City.
Hudson is only a two-hour train or car ride from Manhattan, but it feels worlds away from skyscrapers and cab drivers zigzagging through streets. There is only one main street in Hudson — a seven-block stretch of antique shops, boutiques, restaurants, quaint gift shops and a bookstore-pub.
Walk through History
Warren Street is the gathering spot, and it’s designed for walking. Give yourself ample time to wander into these unique, local shops and restaurants and savor each treasure. Grab a coffee or a craft brew at The Spotty Dog Taps & Tea, a bookstore and pub. Discover just the right journal from The Social Type, an adorable stationery and gift shop. Create a personalized scent at Poured Candle Bar. You can catch a show at Hudson Hall, New York’s oldest surviving theater. The historic opera house still hosts performances and art events.
My husband and I arrived a couple days before the wedding to explore a few towns nestled in the Catskill Mountains region of upstate New York. We flew into Albany, rented a car and headed first to Cooperstown, home to the National Baseball Hall of Fame, and the place that my husband had been dreaming about visiting since he was a 9-year-old playing little league at Van Nuys Sherman Oaks Recreation Center.
The drive to Hudson, whether coming from Manhattan or Albany, is spectacular with views of the river, mountains, Hudson Valley and its quaint towns. We were there in mid-November and experienced a dusting of snow, which added an extra touch of magic to the fall foliage that was still visible on some trees.
History breathes from every corner. Take the Thomas Cole National Historic Site, where you can visit the home and studio of the “Father of American Landscape Painting.” And the Saugerties Lighthouse has been continuously operating since it was built in 1869.
The Candlestick Maker
While planning our trip, we wanted to get a true vibe of Hudson, which was a whaling port in the 1800s. We divided our stay between The Wick hotel, located near the Hudson River waterfront and walking distance to everything, and a restored farmhouse that is a 10-minute drive from the downtown area.
As soon as you walk into The Wick, with its industrial-chic design, you know that this place has a story to tell. Originally constructed in the 1860s as the South Bay Mill, a soap and candle factory, it was later used as a warehouse for wool and tobacco, a pants manufacturing site and a bedspring factory. A boutique hotel since 2018 (now part of Marriott), the walls showcase the original patents of the soaps and candles, and the rooms feature Hudson Valley handcrafted soaps.
The Farmhouse
We had a press invite from Whimstay, a vacation rental booking company launched in 2020, and we decided to try them out for our Hudson trip. Whimstay’s focus is finding last-minute rentals nationwide. It offers both condos and houses. Enjoy a nice discount when you book within 30 days of your trip.
We wanted something unique, and Whimstay found a restored farmhouse surrounded by gorgeous trees. The four-bedroom, two-story house gave us all the cozy vibes of Hudson — hardwood floors, a fire pit, a warm yellow exterior and pitched roof.
Woven into the charm were modern touches — a remodeled kitchen with stainless steel appliances, big windows to bring in the sun, a TV, WiFi, a comfy couch and lots of space to work and relax. I loved seeing the weathered old barn out of the living room window, a remnant of a time gone by.
The Baker
This town is for savoring: fresh bread and pastries, farmstead cheeses, local and seasonal ingredients. What I loved the most is how restaurants, coffee shops and breweries are housed in 100-year-old buildings, mixing old charm with modern design. Here are a few of our favorite spots.
Olde Hudson Market & Cafe (449 Warren St): A café and food market located in a beautiful brick-faced building. You can find farmstead cheeses, local produce and in-house sandwiches and salads.
The Maker (302 Warren St.). A jewel of a café, restaurant, lounge and an 11-room hotel inside a historic Georgian Mansion building designed with unique vintage pieces and artwork from the owner’s private collection. The old carriage house has been converted into a cozy cocktail lounge.
Le Perche (230 Warren St.): A French bakery/bistro located in a former bank building. Known for its wood-burning bakery, breads and pastries.
Return Brewing (725 State St.) A spacious and friendly craft taproom inside a converted warehouse just a short walk from Warren Street. You can bring your own food, dog and kids.
feast & floret (13 South 3rd St.) A lovely restaurant in a beautiful 19th century brick building that was once home to a blacksmith shop and a carriage house. The owners here not only source their menu ingredients locally, they also sell fresh flowers from their own farm.
Savona’s Trattoria & Bar (136 Warren St.) In its second generation of family ownership, brothers Stephen and Daniel are continuing their parents’ commitment to serving an authentic Italian meal and a warm welcome.
Banque (544 Warren St.): A sophisticated café and chocolatier housed in a restored 1927 bank building designed by the architects of the Empire State Building.
Kitty’s Market (60 South Front St.) This cute café/market sits right by the Wick Hotel. Enjoy comfort food, wine and beer and grab-and-go items.
More to Explore
You can easily spend a couple of days eating, walking and exploring the shops along Warren Street. But there is more to see.
Just a 10-minute drive from downtown Hudson, you’ll find Olana State Historic Site, where landscape artist Frederic Church built his 250-acre Persian-inspired estate. The park and parking are free, and the sweeping 360-degree views of the Hudson River, the mountains and the valleys are spectacular. There are lots of walking trails to explore. The park is open daily from 8 a.m. to sunset. Tours of the estate are available Friday-Sunday and require tickets, which you can purchase here.
Culinary Institute of America in New York is an hourlong drive from downtown Hudson in Hyde Park. We found more spectacular views of the Hudson Valley, plus delicious food created by students. These future chefs focus on using local ingredients to create something fabulous. The main restaurants do require advance reservation. We had a lovely lunch and pastries at Apple Pie Bakery Café, known for its freshly baked bread and classic sandwiches all made by students.
Also in Hyde Park are the Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site and the Franklin D. Roosevelt Library and Museum. We did make the beautiful drive to see these two sites, but we visited during the government shutdowns and both locations were closed at the time. Next time we’re here, we will definitely take the tours.
Elena Epstein is Editorial Director of L.A. Parent.
