As a Louisiana-raised girl who learned to cook from my grandmother and went on to write a book about my ancestors once I migrated to Los Angeles, I’m drawn to any event that blends flavor, family and memory. This Memorial Day weekend, Ancestry’s “The Stories of US: Generations at the Market” will do just that. The free, self-guided walking tour will take place May 23-25 at one of the most iconic and family history-steeped landmarks in L.A. — The Original Farmers Market at Third and Fairfax.
Using Ancestry’s collection of historical records, the tour traces the origins of the market’s multigenerational merchants, uncovering where they came from, how they built their businesses and how their traditions have been passed down over time. What struck me most was how often those family lines included grocers, farmers and cooks.
“A New York City naturalization record reveals my second great-grandfather, Samuel Taubin, was listed as a grocer after coming to the United States from Russia and settling in Brooklyn in the late 1800s,” said Nancy Silverton, a celebrated local chef, baker, restaurateur and cookbook author credited with popularizing the sourdough and artisan bread movement in the U.S. Ancestry has partnered with Silverton, this year’s recipient of the James Beard Lifetime Achievement Award, to helm the culinary part of the campaign.
As part of a larger campaign celebrating the nation’s 250th anniversary, Ancestry officials say they chose The Original Farmers Market as a beacon of L.A.’s strong entrepreneurial spirit. Los Angeles is home to more small businesses than any other city in the U.S. And Silverton captures some of her favorite family-run small businesses in the “Shop Small Los Angeles Guide” she curated for Ancestry.
Three of the Farmers Market businesses are highlighted: Monsieur Marcel, Huntington Meats & Sausage and Bob’s Coffee & Donuts, which opened its stall in 1947.
“Bob’s Donuts is the nostalgic place to get a coffee and doughnut,” Silverton said. “That’s what the Farmers Market has always been. It feels like a small neighborhood where everyone has their favorite stops. Now, I take my grandkids there and they love it as much as I do.”
During a media preview, Silverton honored her mother’s culinary memory by making a version of her egg salad sandwich. “It was her favorite thing to eat and her favorite thing to make,” she said. “My sister and I would get kind of embarrassed taking the egg salad sandwiches to lunch. It kind of smelled, you know. Nobody wanted to trade lunches with us.”
Silverton said even simple food deserves care. For her sandwich, she uses fresh eggs cooked until the yolks are jammy, plus good mayonnaise, grated garlic, fresh lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil, kosher salt and a thick bread such as milk bread or challah.
I bit into the creamy sandwich and was delighted by its both its simplicity and richness. “You don’t need all that fancy stuff for egg salad,” Silverton advised.
Legacy businesses on “The Stories of Us” tour
Other delectable tastings came courtesy the kitchens of the businesses that will be highlighted during this weekend’s walking tour. A brief look at their culinary and family histories:
Magee’s Kitchen: Opening in 1934, the 1950 census shows Blanche as the owner of a “retail food business,” making her one of the early female business owners in Los Angeles. The Magee family’s legacy continues today through her great-nephew, Dwayne Call.
Huntington Meats & Sausage: There’s a culinary tradition in owner Jim Cascone’s family history. A World War II draft registration card for his grandfather, Sam Gorgone, lists Sam’s place of employment as a local food market, underscoring the family’s love of the industry.
Charlie’s Coffee Shop: Food has always been a family business for owner Katie Gilbert, whose mother opened this beloved restaurant in1976. This 1950 census details Katie’s grandmother as a sales clerk for a retail food market.
Bennett’s Homemade Ice Cream: The Bennett family history of small-batch scoops dates back to1963. The 1891 Census of England lists owner Scott Bennett’s great-great grandfather as a grocer in Cornwall, revealing the family’s connection to food spans generations.
And a non-food business that is just as iconic is also part of the tour:
Sticker Planet: The Kraft family opened Sticker Planet in 1992. Selma Kraft, mother to current owners Hilary and Richard Kraft, traces her entrepreneurial roots to her own mother who is listed in the1950 census as a Brooklyn candy store owner.
Tips to make the most of your walking tour
- Pick up a tour map at the Ancestry booth to read background on the multigenerational vendor stories
- Explore historical records that bring those stories to life
- Reflect on your own family history and how it connects to a larger American story
- Check out the chance to participate in the Next Generation of LA’s Small Business Owners. In partnership with the Network for Teaching Entrepreneurship (NFTE), Ancestry is launching the “Ancestry Legacy Builders Scholarship” to support aspiring student entrepreneurs across Los Angeles with hands-on training and mentorship. For every family story shared and preserved through the walking tour, Ancestry will fund one full-year scholarship for a local student to participate in NFTE’s entrepreneurship program.
The scents, memories and possibilities that flow through The Original Farmers Market whenever my family and I visit have long been part of my Los Angeles story. As a Louisiana transplant, it’s one of the places that has helped me feel rooted.
Ancestry’s “The Stories of US” project reminds me of my own family’s lost recipes, including my great-grandmother Mary’s teacakes. I have long harbored such burning questions about those who came before me. In trying to write about them, navigating around erasure and silence, I became even more convinced of the importance of documenting our lives for ourselves and the generations yet to come.
Cassandra Lane is a mom, editor in chief of L.A. Parent and author of We Are Bridges, a family memoir.
